> I was in a coffee shop in Vienna last year when I came across an > automotive accessory catalog of huge proportions, probably 3 inches thick. I > think it was called D & W. Would anyone know about this catalog and where to > get it? Thank you in advance for your assistance!!! Yes, full of beutiful cars & woman !!! Try Ron's Parts at 604 944-0494. By Vienna, if you mean Vienna, VA., drop by VW Sport on Eisenhower Ave in Alexandria, they normally have a few copies for sale. There number is 703 461-8511. You cannot order directly from D & W. You have to find a US importer for the particuliar product line you are interested in. I saw some nice Koenig Leather Seats, Black with Red Centers, in the D & W Catalog, found a US distributor, and I now have them in my 911. -------------------------------------------- I purchased a midnight blue 964 about 2 months ago. It was beautiful, excepting the unusual amount of "spiderwebbing" (very small scratches, probably from washing), which became especially apparent in direct sunlight. I used exactly what you describe, the 3M Handglaze, and Blitz Wax, and was amazed at the result. I really hadn't expected the car to look as fantastic as it did. -------------------------------------------- I don't know what a "weathered" windshield looks like but I use the Griots glass polish occasionally. It is only effective in removing stubborn dirt that otherwise cannot be removed with any glass cleaner. The only stubborn spots I get are those left by stuttering windshield wipers after several days of rain and wiper use. I believe the Griots catalogue makes reference to the windshield pits and leads us to believe that those are actually dirt spots removable with this product. This is not the case. -------------------------------------------- P21-S makes something called Total Auto Wash, which is a citrus-based degreaser that is powerful, yet safe enough to use on your paint. I used it on my 88 Carrera's engine and it easily removed 10 years of engine dirt. Also worked wonders on the wheel wells, which had never been cleaned. Cover your distributor and air intake with some baggies to protect them from water. Spray the P21-S full strength onto an engine that is just warm enough to hold your hand on comfortably. Allow it to soak in for a few minutes, then gently rinse it off and reapply until you're happy. Then drive the car until the engine is dry (it will steam quite a bit). You can get P21-S Total Auto Wash at www.carcareonline.com, along with more detailed instructions for cleaning your engine, and just about anything else you can think of for your car. Great site, and the owner, Larry Reynolds, is a nice guy. -------------------------------------------- Below is a check list I use when removing a 911 engine. It is *not* a detailed "how-to", but rather a list of reminders to be checked off. It is handy if you are frequently interrupted, and need to reflect back on where you were. It may save you from forgetting where you left off and trying to let the engine down when, for example, the fuel lines are still hooked up. 911 Engine & Transaxle Removal Checklist Applies up through the 915 transaxles, G-50 will differ. Assumes access to hydraulic lift. Prior to start: _| Car on lift (need to modify below instructions if car jack only is available) _| Remove battery cable at battery (-) negative terminal _| Loosen rear wheels _| Raise car slightly, remove rear wheels _| Shift transaxle into third gear for 5-speed, (first for 4-speed) (or whatever gear moves the transaxle shift rod into the transaxle the farthest). _| Disconnect shift linkage in shift tunnel at the allen-head screw _| Prop up clutch pedal for easier removal of clutch cable _| Penetrating oil on: Oil line connections, Rear roll bar brackets, Transaxle bracket bolts, Rear engine mount bolts, Other _| With warm engine, drain oil overnight (engine and oil tank) _| Remove oil lines at rear of engine, allow to drain Engine compartment _| Disconnect air conditioning compressor (or bracket with compressor if easier), swing to one side on fender using protective pad _| Disconnect electrical wiring at engine - rear 14-pin connector, front connector on some models, lambda connector, etc. _| Disconnect fuel lines in engine compartment ( supply line, return line, accumulator) _| Disconnect brake booster vacuum line _| Disconnect cruise control _| Disconnect throttle linkage to transaxle _| Disconnect crankcase breather hose Underside of car _| Disconnect throttle linkage at transaxle bell crank, put aside _| Disconnect accelerator linkage at transaxle bell crank _| Disconnect axles at transaxle, wire up out of way _| Disconnect ground strap at transaxle _| Disconnect starter cable _| Disconnect heater hoses from heat exchangers to body _| Disconnect clutch cable _| Disconnect speedometer cable or electrical sensor _| Remove rear anti-roll bar _| Place jack cradle under engine _| Loosen engine mounts, transaxle mounts _| Lower engine and transaxle Engine out _| Replace oil pressure switch, o-ring on thermostat as a matter of course while engine is out. This list cannot cover all the year models, but has all of the needed steps included for most of them. Disclaimer - "Safety" type steps have been left out. -------------------------------------------- I've used Simple Green to clean the engine in my 911 and in my wife's Acura. I use a lot of water, but not too much pressure (be careful of the paper hoses). Excellent results in both, especially compared to harsh cleaner such as Gunk. Leaves a nice minty smell, too :-) On the Acura, the "check engine" light comes on after washing the engine, and the computer fault code says that the left and right O2 sensors are bad. After it heats up and finishes drying, I reset the computer and the "check engine" light stays out. Apparently some components that don't like to be drowned. -------------------------------------------- I'd bet that most of the 911 owner out there have noticed the difference between the actual speed and the speedometer. Someone on the list gave this information to me : for my 1984 Carrera 915 tranny. Speeds at 1000 RPM 1st - 5.8 mph 2nd - 10.4 mph 3rd - 14.7 mph 4th - 18.5 mph 5th - 23.6 mph Hope this helps. When I'm going fast (over 90) I can't see the speedo anyway because it is hidden behind the steering wheel. I just do the math in my head. --------------------------------------------------------- >Sounds good, but if you don't have a full vehicle lift, >what is the prefered method? Can you put a jack under >the bottom of each rear trailing arm? How 'high' do >you have to get the bumper to clear the engine when it >comes out? Put the engine stands under the rear torsion bar end covers. My jack stands are set at 21" height, which is just sufficient to allow the engine to be lowered onto a floor jack, and rolled out with the rear panel removed. --------------------------------------------------------- Steve, I just had this fun last weekend. I took the door panels off to restore a shotty speaker installation from the PO. It is not difficult to remove the paneling, but it is difficult to wire stand alone tweeters (if you are doing this). To remove the panel start with the top panel (where the door lock rod is). There are two screws, one kind of in the door jamb and one near the back (you will see a small black patch covering the hole, remove and you will see the screw) After these two screws are removed this upper leather piece pulls right up and off. Then remove the map pocketing at the bottom of the door. It is all straight forward and you will see the screws (they are a bit buried in the carpet). Then take the door handling off with an allen wrench.(two at the top, two deep holes to get to the bottom ones) To remove the handle that actually opens the door you just pop the little metal tube up, hear the pop, and it is loose. It then swing free. You must also remove the round knob that locks and unlocks the door from the inside. To do this take a small regular screwdriver and pop off the face. You can see what will come off by looking close. Once the face is removed a phillips screwdriver will remove it. Pull the window switch out of the socket, label where the wires go, and disconnect. Now you are ready to carefully pop the leather panel from the door. There are only about 3 pegs to pop off, two at the front side and one at the back. While you have the door apart, you might as well lithium grease your power window workings (preventative maintenance). Check the bottom of the door with a flashlight for debris and rust, and tighten up anywhere you see screws, etc. to keep rattling down. 911 doors are know to rattle from within usually from the power window tracking. Installation is the reverse and have fun with the wiring. Alex 82SC Targa --------------------------------------------------------- There may be some minor differences, but this is how I did the door panels on my 83: 1. Remove door lock button and window sill. The sill is held by two screws, one on each end. The rear screw is under a small plastic plug. 2. Remove the rotary unlocking knob. Pry the cover off the center of the knob and remove the phillips screw. 3. Disconnect the main door latch. This little linkage is under the door pull handle, and snaps into a small plastic coupling. 4. Gently pry the window switch from the door panel (stiff putty knife works well--be careful not to bend the little metal bezel in the panel that the switch snaps into). Disconnect the wires, after noting which wire connects to which terminal. 5. Remove radio speaker grills. 6. Remove door pockets. On my car, there are three machine screws along the bottom edge of each pocket, one sheet-metal screw on each end, and one sm screw in the center under the pocket lid. Also remove the small plastic door-pocket bracket near the front of the door. 7. Remove the door pull handle. Mine were held by four allen-head screws, two at the top and two unside holes near the bottom. 8. Make sure all remaining screws/bolts holding the panel are removed. Then carefully pry the plastic retaining clips loose. Again, a stiff putty knife or scraper works well. 9. This is a good opportunity to inspect the inside of the door to make sure the drain holes are clear, and that there is no rust. Also a good time to lubricate all of the mechanical linkages in the door. There is a much more detailed description of this procedure by Allen Caldwell in Volume IX of Up-Fixin, page 300. --------------------------------------------------------- If I remember my 1971 911S transmission (901) correctly, there are two allen plugs on the side of the tranny. The lower one is for draining the oil and the upper is for filling. Tips from a novice: 1) Loosen the top first. You don't want to drain the oil and then find you cannot open the fill plug. 2) I think the plugs require a large allen key to open (17mm?) 3) You'll need a cheapo pump from your car parts store to pump the oil from its plastic container to the top fill plug. 4) Apparently the tranny isn't sensitive to overfilling. Just stick your finger in the hole and check that the fluid level is just below the filler hole. 5) Transmission oil has a long lasting distinct smell. Do this job near you wife's laundry and she'll remember you often during the next few days. --------------------------------------------------------- Michael, You have experienced one of the 915 mysteries. i don't know what causes this but the solutionis not too bad. Sometimes I can get them unstuck by manipulating the shift lever but you could do more harm than good here. First, drain the tranny fluid, then remove the inspection plate on the bottom of the transmission. I believe there are four small nuts that hold this on. You will know what I mean when you get under there. once the cover is removed you will see the shift rods and notice that one is out of the shift gate range. i don't know why this happens but it does. simple manipulate it back into place, between the shift forks and replace the inspection cover. Remember to put the fluid back in and you will be on the road in no time. Someone once told me that this is caused by taking the car out of reverse too quickly/sloppily. i was told when taking it out of reverse to go straigh up toward 5th, then into nuetral instead of a diagonal motion. --------------------------------------------------------- For tire pressure I run about 23-24 in the front and 28-32 in the back --------------------------------------------------------- Once the engine and transmission is out of the car, four bolts allow them to separate. Then the clutch pressure plate is exposed. Removing the pressure plate, frees the clutch disc. The throw-out bearing is easily removed from the fork. The pilot bearing is harder, but a special tool is available. You may want to change the flywheel as well, or at least remove it and have it machined. Use new bolts and the correct torque for replacing the flywheel. You will need an alignment tool to center the clutch disc while installing the new pressure plate. The clutch on the Porsche is basically similar to most standard transmission vehicles, but the parts are more expensive. -------------------------------------------------------- I drove a few 911's with racing clutches. IMHO if you drive the car on the street and especially, if you drive in traffic, you will regret it. The racing clutch is very heavy and if lots of shifting is required (in traffic) it can get very tiring very fast. Either put in the stock clutch or go one step up to the aluminum flywheel. Engine will rev a bit quicker but otherwise drive normally. I've been tracking my car for 6 years and have had no clutch related problems (2 clutches total in the last 8 years). My 2c. -------------------------------------------------------- My '87 did similar things. I found a thread on this list that suggested cleaning the idle stabilizer valve. When you open the engine lid, above and to the rear of the fan, where the various hoses are looping around the air intake, there's a metal cylinder, about 3 inches long. I cleaned mine with a silicone cleaner and saw some improvement. The big improvement was cleaning the throttle body. It's a bit of a hassle to get to. I've been warned strongly against just spraying chemicals down the intake, they could do bad things to whatever sensors are there. What I found here was a bunch of oily dirt. I traced the various hoses and found they are breathers for recirculating vapor from the oil tank back into the motor to keep them from going straight into the atmosphere. At least, that's my read. After 11 years, there was significant accumulation. I wiped off the gunk from around the butterfly valve, both sides and all around and cleaned the mass air flow sensor as well. I didn't use any chemicals here, just a rag. Big improvement. It felt like a new car afterward. Good luck. -------------------------------------------------------- Theoretically, you should have the flywheel "runout" to determine if there are any high spots. Any areas that are discolored have heat stress. If you are thinking of going to a lighter flywheel, then do it now and choose the flywheel and clutch as a package. I did a lightened flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and pilot bearing for about $750. Because the surfaces mate the flywheel and clutch (disc and pressure plate) should be matched. Reducing rotating mass allows the engine to rev easier. -------------------------------------------------------- Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor - Upgrading 84-89 Carrera The cylinder head temperature sensor measures the temp from cylinder head #3 and sends it to the DME computer. The original part (911.606.405.00) got its ground from the cylinder head and had a single wire going to the DME. Apparently this method of providing ground is unreliable, so the updated part provides its ground from a second wire (964.606.405.00). Interestingly, on my car (87 Carrera), there already was a second ground wire in the car (two wires running to a 2-pin connector), even though the original sensor had only one wire (1-pin connector) and didn't use the ground. This was good news, because it meant that the upgrade didn't require any new wiring. On the left side of the engine compartment towards the back, you'll see a bracket with three wire connectors on it, the top one is for the head temp sensor. If you try disconnecting the sensor while the car is running, you'll see that it does run but very roughly (and overly rich). I have heard some differing opinions on whether a faulty sensor could cause no-start conditions, but my car it definitely will not start with the sensor unplugged. It's easy to check if you have the upgraded (964-style) part in case you're wondering. If you disconnect the sensor at the bracket in the engine tin, you'll notice that the left side (wire to DME) has two wires going to a 2-pin connector. The right side (wire to sensor) has a 1-pin connector if it's the orginal part (911.606.405.00), or a 2-pin connector it's the upgraded part (964.606.405.00). The upgraded part also has a thicker wire going to the sensor because it's really two wires (additional one for ground) under the insulation instead of the single wire on the original part. If you are diagnosing a no-start condition and have the original sensor, you might want to test the sensor's resistance to ground with an ohmmeter. Put the positive probe on the single pin in the connector coming from the sensor (the connector on the right which is fixed to the bracket) and the negative probe on a known good ground. If the sensor is working properly, it should read in the 1-2k ohms range. If it reads zero or infinity the sensor is probably bad. Interestingly, I can't seem to get a proper resistance reading from the new sensor, but it definitely works. Okay, here's the procedure for upgrading the sensor without using any special tools. Jack up the car (rear) and secure it on jack stands, remove the left rear wheel. Inside the wheel well you'll see an oval-shaped grommet in the engine tin with a wire coming out, then the wire runs through another grommet up higher in the wheel well (along with two other wires). Remove the lower grommet by prying it out with a screwdriver. You'll see the head temp sensor in cyclinder head #3 inside the hole in the engine tin. Normally a special tool would be required to remove and replace the sensor (a slotted socket that fits over the wire), but it's not needed. Instead, cut the wire off the old sensor (as close as possible to the sensor itself), then extract the old sensor with a deep socket. Thread the new sensor in by hand and tighten it with some needle nose pliers (it's a bitch to get in there but works). Now pry out the top grommet with a screwdriver (this was very difficult, I actually had to cut out my old one). Feed the new wire through the bracket inside the wheel well (you'll need to remove and replace the little bracket). You'll notice that there are two additional wires that run through the top grommet (back into the engine compartment) along with the head temp sensor wire. Fortunately, the new grommet is slotted so these extra wires slip in easy. Slip the two extra wires into the new grommet and feed the wire through the hole. Don't replace the grommet till you've installed the wire in the engine compartment. You should be able to reach into the back of the engine compartment and grab the new sensor wire. You'll see that it runs around the manifold pipes and through a bracket in the middle of the engine. This bracket can be easily removed with a 4" socket extension and wrench to feed the new wire through. To install the new wire on the bracket at the left side of the engine compartment, you need to take apart the bracket. You'll notice that there are two little screws on the face of the bracket. Remove these screws and the bracket slides apart. It's easier to get at these screws if you uplug all three wires (be sure to label them appropriately). Slide the old plug out, the new one in, replace the cover of the bracket. You should see two pins in the connector on the DME end (left side). The top pin is for the temp signal, and the bottom pin is for ground. You may want to check that you are in fact getting a proper ground by reading the bottom pin with an ohmmeter. You'll notice that the connector on the sensor end (right side in the bracket) now has two pins instead of the original single pin. To complete the job, don't forget to reinstall the top grommet in the wheel well. This part is difficult, so be prepared to let a few profanities fly ;-) That's it, head temp sensor 101, for the DIY mechanic. Thanks to Darrin Sacks for explaining how to do this with no special tools. -------------------------------------------------------- List members, There has been a string of inquires regarding hesitation of 911s, especially with reference to the 3.2 models with DMEs (mine is an 87 coupe). The mileage is 75k miles. I use fuel stabiliser in the winter when storing the car and have used 'fuel system service' which is essentially an injector cleaner. I had the oxygen sensor replaced, I noticed the car was running rich and wasn't getting the fuel mileage it should. I also had the original head temperature sensor replaced with the new two-pronged grounded unit. The car runs like a top and doesn't have any further hesitation and runs much smoother now (like a 911 should at speed!). For those list members who have been experiencing intermittent hesitations, I would recommend replacing the Oxygen Sensor and get the updated Head Temp Sensor with the dual ground pins. ---------------------------------------------------- Several members have requested that I pass along the tips that I got for replacing the fuel filter on my '87 Targa. Here is what I did: 1. Start with a cool engine. It's probably not a good idea to have gasoline running onto hot engine components. 2. Remove the negative ground from the battery. 3. The filter is located on the left (driver's) side of the engine compartment. Put rags around/under the filter to absorb the gas that will run out when you open the fittings. I removed the wire from the ignition coil to give me a little better access. 5. Remove the top fitting by holding the nut on the filter (19mm) and turning the nut on the fitting (19mm). 6. Remove the bottom fitting next by holding the nut on the filter (19mm) and turning the nut on the fitting (17mm). 7. Remove the strap around the filter by loosening the adjusting screw and then remove the filter. 8. Replacement is just the reverse of steps 1-7. Be sure that the arrow on the filter that indicates the direction of flow is pointing in the correct position (mine was pointing up). 9. You will need to crank the engine a short time to fill the filter. 10. Check for leaks. 11. Happy motoring! ---------------------------------------------------- I have SSI heat exchangers with a Monty muffler on my '78 SC. The combination did make a "seat of the pants" difference in power output. However, I suspect that most if not all of the power gain comes from the pre 74 style heat exchangers. I tried a Bursch muffler prior to the Monty and that was way too loud. Even the Monty is noticeably louder than stock. With the SSI exchangers and no Cat to act as a pre muffler you have to be prepared to live with the extra volume. Personally, I like the sound of the Monty. That plus the fact that it is a stock style "hot dog" muffler influenced my decision to go with it instead of a B&B or Borla. By the way, I perceived the Bursch to produce slightly more power than the Monty. ---------------------------------------------------- Here's my advice from BTDT on a '78 SC: 1) It'll be a long weekend. Pulling the exchangers can be a 10 - 15 minute per nut operation. Break a stud and it's going to be a lot more work. 2) Oil lines. If you lay under your car you'll see a 1/2" diameter line that comes out of the drivers side of the case goes toward the back of the car around the backside and up the front. If you look at your exhaust it goes the other way -- toward the front across the crossover pipe and back around thru the cat. If you look at headers, SSI's or pre-74 exhausts they are simpler -- straight out the back. Their oil line is simple as well -- a hoop across the bottom of the case. Warning: getting these lines off an old car can be a real bitch. My engine was on a stand when I did the conversion. The huge "nut" on the line wouldn't turn for love or money. I ended up cutting off the line behind the "nut" and then splitting the nut open. Lots of anti- seize went on the new one. There's a second line from the thermostat to the "hoop." I couldn't get that one off either. My shop cut the line off and used an impact wrench to spin it free. 3) Heat exchanger nuts. Heed Bruce Anderson's advice and heat 'em up cherry red before removal. Terry Shugart suggested a MAPP torch (assuming you don't have a gas welder handy) and it worked well for me. Go slow. Have a fire extinguisher handy. I used a 1/4" "mini-breaker bar" w/12 or 13mm socket to get most of the nuts. The clearances are very tight. I remember a 3/8" wobble extension being handy too. Almost every tool in the box got used that night. A long hex drive is needed for the inside nuts. I used a L shaped allen wrench and vice grips for these. Don't forget the anti-seize when you reinstall. 4) Do you really need heat? Headers are lots cheaper, lighter and a whole lot easier to install. European Racing Headers by George Norbel (see Bruce Anderson's book under suppliers for phone #) are well made. ---------------------------------------------------- > I've tried two different types of leather cleaner on my interior, but > they both started to take the color off. I have a burgandy leather > interior in my 911. What can I use that will keep the leather soft, > shiny, and still burgandy? Preferrably also one that doesn't smell > awful. Thanks. Lexol pH Cleaner followed by Lexol Conditioner ---------------------------------------------------- I was looking for something to fiddle with at the weekend :) - the car's basically running fine, and I get bored sometimes. Anyhow, my gearshift ('83 SC Targa - 915 'box) is a little notchy, particularly 1st to 2nd. I followed the adjustment of the shift rod piece in the w/s manual (also written in long hand at various sites, so I won't repeat it here). 10 Mins work. I won't pretend my shift is miles better, but it is noticeably smoother, particularly going from neutral to 1st and 1st to 2nd. For such a little investment of time, this is the best bit of spannering I've ever done. I would suggest that anyone with a notchy 915 makes sure their shiftrod is adjusted right before they look any further. (you can even do it in the rain without getting wet - no Targa jokes please!) ---------------------------------------------------- Shift Linkage - Adjustment 1. Remove the cover plate on the tunnel, behind the front seats. 2. Place gearshift in neutral. 3. Loosen the shift rod clamp. Turn the shift rod (by grasping the coupler) to the right, as seen in the direction of driving. 4. Move gearshift lever to the left until it touches the stop, and move it fore-and-aft until the lower section is vertical when viewed from the side (the fore-and-aft adjustment can be modified to suit the driver, provided sufficient length of the shifter rod remains inside the clamp). 5. Lightly tighten the clamp. 6. Check if equally long travel is evident in gears 1-4, and that 5th and reverse can be easily engaged. Correct as necessary. 7. Tighten the clamp securely. 8. Shift into 5th gear, and check the shift rod for rotational play. A definite (slight) amount of play must be evident. This is also a good time to inspect the shift coupler bushings. Be aware that some fore-and-aft play in the coupler bushings is required. Bob Tindel btindel@gte.net So for those who have trouble with type 915 transmissions and shifting, based on a broad statistical sample of 1....I conclude the following which is of no validity nor supportability. Given that the synchro's are in good shape and they are adjusted right....the suckers are not hard to shift at all. Yes they baulk on forced shifts....but that is what they are supposed to do. If you shift smoothly and crisply there are no problems...no need to run it through other gears at stop lights etc. The key is proper shift linkage adjustment. So for those who are having problems, here is the "trick" 1. Check the bushings in your shift linkage. This includes the 2 at the coupler between the rear seats, the one under the housing which is in the hoop retained by the 2 smaller bolts on the shift housing and the cup at the bottom of the shift rod. Make sure they are in good shape, they are cheap and easy to replace. 2. Make sure that if you have a later housing, that the longitudinal pivot pin is nicely snug, not too loose. You can tell if you have this housing as it will have a lock nut on the front (visible when you peel back the rubber boot around the shift lever. Consider upgrading to the later (post '78) housing and factory short shift kit if you haven't already. 3. Make sure your clutch is adjusted right. It should engage about 1/4 to 1/3 up from the floor board (IMHO) and have about 20mm of free play, measured by pulling the clutch pedal back...as there is a spring which is pressing it towards the floor board, hence the bit of tension. 4. Follow the factory shifter adjustment procedure. It is as follows: a) Take off the cover between the rear seats which exposes the shift coupler. Pull up the shifter boot, particularly so you can see the lower part of the shifter lever where it bends from "angled back" to more vertical. b) Loosen the retaining bolt which pinches the shift rod on to the spline on the shift coupler. Let it be very loose. c) WITH THE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL, rotate the shift coupler clockwise when viewed towards the front of the car. You should be able to feel the coupler rub against the various shift stops as you rotate it back and forth. Rotate it to the furthest clockwise position, as seen when you are facing forward. Don't pretend you are Tarzan and turn it with huge force....lightly is all that is necessary.. d) Keep your hand on it and hold it there. Don't let it wiggle, if it does, turn it back to the furthest clockwise position. e) Move the shift lever so that the more vertical part of the lever is vertical (ie 90 degrees to the level...sticking straight up so to speak). Move it so that it lightly touches the side of the shifter housing which is on the 1st/2nd gear side.....closest to the driver. Again, gently. f) They should now be properly aligned.....lever closest to the driver with bottom part vertical, coupler clockwise in the neutral plane. g) Carefully tighten the pinch bolt. Make sure it is quite tight. h) Check things out. You must be able to engage reverse clash free (give the gear a little bit of time to stop after you stomp on the clutch), shifting should get to all the gears easily when driving.....things don't work as smoothly when stopped and lastly, there must be a little bit of rotational play when 5th gear is selected. This is checked by shifting into 5th, and feeling whether you can wiggle the shift coupler with your hand. It should just click back and forth slightly...not much, but clearly discernable play. i) Assuming all is well, put all the covers back. If it is not well.... my fervent suggestion is that you START OVER at b. ....I have never had any luck fiddling with the linkage. Drive and be happy. Dennis Kalma kalmad@cadvision.com '75 911S with Kremer 3.2 ----------------------------------------------------